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RedStickGirl 

Jan-31-2008 22:17

Hello TileMan, The cleaning lady must have spilled something on the ceramic tile in the bathroom and it took the finish (glaze?) off the tile. It irritates me every time I walk into the bathroom and the spot is starting to discolor. I've checked around and nobody seems to have any good advice about how to repair the tile. Any advice? Thanks, RedStickGirl

Dear REDSTICKGIRL: It can be very difficult to correct a condition such as this without replacing the damaged tile. You may want to look at some of the products that are available in the sealers and cleaner section of this site or from your local tile dealer but in most cases like these, the damaged tile is replaced with a new one. Gerald Sloan NTCA

OB Steve 

Jan-31-2008 17:59

We are installing travertine tile over 1-1/8" T&G (new construction). In your opinion, which product is better, a ditra mat or hardibacker? Thanks OB Steve

Dear OB STEVE: Either product is a good choice and the manufacturers of both products are members of the NTCA ( National Tile Contractors Association) so I would read their material data sheets to determine which one best suits your particular installation requirements and limitations to make the best choice. Gerald Sloan NTCA

rockin1mama 

Jan-31-2008 12:38

can i put anything over ceramic tile in bathroom?

Dear ROCKIN1MAMA: I'm not sure what you mean by anything. you may want to be more specific in order for me to understand the best answer to your question. Try again please. Gerald Sloan NTCA

bmr143 

Jan-30-2008 23:35

I just installed 12x12 porcelain tile over Aqua Tough backer board. I did not tape and thinset the seams of the backer board. I have just heard that I should have. Is this a major problem? What, if anything will happen to the tile?

Dear BMR143: You could have tiles to crack that is installed over the untaped seems of the backer boards and it's common to have the grout joints to crack and powder out due to excessive movement. Gerald Sloan NTCA

rcwoodguy 

Jan-30-2008 23:06

Hi, what is the best way to install duraceramic tile by congoleum on a Kitchen floor with OSB I beam joists 24" on center and a 3/4" OSB sub floor? thanks, steve

Dear RCWOODGUY: You may want to view all the methods in the TCNA hand book. Go to  www.tileusa.com  to get a copy of the hand book. Gerald Sloan NTCA

Carlyn 

Jan-30-2008 19:58

We scraped old linoleum off a cement floor, but a lot of the glue remains. Can we tile over the glue, or does it have to be removed (or covered with backerboard)? If it has to be removed, are there products available or is old fashioned elbow grease the best answer. Thanks for your help.

Dear CARLYN: There are some new tools available that can be seen on this site under tool. I would recommend that you remove as much of the glue as possible and use a highly modified thinset to install your tile. Gerald Sloan NTCA

rand 

Jan-30-2008 11:30

how to repair chips in tile

Dear RAND: There are some products available but I've never used them. Look on line here to see what's available. Gerald Sloan NTCA

FP kitchen 

Jan-30-2008 10:01

I just had new tile put in my kitchen. The installer got some of the glue on the tiles. How can I clean the black glue off?

Dear FP KITCHEN: I'm not sure what type of glue this may be? You may want to call your tile installer back to have it cleaned up. Gerald Sloan NTCA

chuck roast 

Jan-29-2008 21:10

I guess there are not enough experts to answer all the questions.........

Dear CHUCK ROAST: I should have some help shortly. Gerald Sloan NTCA

Seanl 

Jan-29-2008 20:51

I have a question regarding the necessary gap or grout line that should be left around the perimeter of tiled shower floor and the appropriate use of colored tile caulk in such areas. I have an issue with this that needs to be addressed asap if you can help. Thank you very much.

Dear SEANL: All inside corners should be filled with a flexible sealant in a shower using only a 100% silicone or a urethane caulk. The siliconized latex caulks are not designed to be used in wet areas such as shower stalls. There are some thinset and grout manufactures that offer color matched 100% silicone caulks that is designed for wet areas. Check with your local tile dealer to see what's available. Gerald Sloan NTCA

rookie remodeler 

Jan-29-2008 17:09

I am remodeling a bathroom and have removed all the tile from around the tub / shower. The sheetrock is dry but most of the paper is gone and a little rough. Is there a way to smoothe the wall and waterproof without installing new cement board? I've heard thinset and or Redgard might work. Thanks for the help.

Dear ROOKIE REMODELER: Thinset is not intended to be used to "true up" or "fix" an unacceptable substrate but the same manufacturer that offers the thinset also offer products that are designed to do these types of repairs. Red guard and other similar products do preform well in these types of applications. Gerald Sloan NTCA

icnfixxit1 

Jan-29-2008 16:49

removed ceramic tile from around bath tub naturaly the finish on sheetrock also came off but the sheetrock is tight and in good condition no shower to wet walls .can i mastic new ceramic to existing sheetrock

Dear ICNFIXXIT1: Most mastics are acceptable materials to bond tile around bath tub walls over a moisture resistant drywall if the tub does not have a shower head. Carefully read the directions and limitations for the products you are considering to use for your tile installation. Gerald Sloan NTCA

T 

Jan-29-2008 09:55

The surface of my ceramic tile is chipping and peeling away all of it originating at the edges of the rooms... 1 year ago I did have the rooms flooded by saltwater for a period of 24 hrs. Could this be the cause of the peeling and why would it all be originating at the perimeter of the room.

Dear T: Ceramic tile does have a microscopic growth when it comes in contact with water for an extended period of time but this generally takes many years of constant exposure such as in a commercial kitchen application. All tile installation need a perimeter movement joint to allow for thermal and moisture expansion. These movement joints are often filled with a 100% silicone or a urethane caulk to allow for movement. Some perimeter joints are covered by a wood base or a decorative shoe mold and therefore not caulked which works well and is an acceptable method. Gerald Sloan NTCA

cla1653 

Jan-29-2008 09:50

I want to install some 6" round polish pottery tiles in my kitchen. Does any company manufacture a ceramic field tile that accomodates a 6" circle? Thanks

Dear CLA1653: You may want to go on line to see what is offered from the many different dealers or go to your local tile dealer to view the wide selection that is available. Gerald Sloan NTCA

secretary 

Jan-28-2008 22:23

I would like to install 20x20 porcelain tile that is not rectified for a client. The tile is going to be installed on diagonal throughout two small hallways an entry, kitchen, small bathroom and den. The homeowner asked me if it can be installed with an one eighth grout joint. Do you recomend that grout joint size?

Dear SECRETARY: Not at all. A suitable grout joint width for that size tile and not being rectified must be at least 1/4" or larger to accommodate tile size variation. I recommend that you dry lay out 10 to 12 pieces to see and show the home owner how it will look with both the inappropriate joint (too small) and the appropriate joint width (larger) before starting installation. Gerald Sloan NTCA

sue parfeuille 

Jan-28-2008 21:32

I am going to install some antique french terra cotta tile (100 years old maybe). I know I need to clean and seal the tile well before installing, but nobody has the same answer as far as what to seal it with. Some say water based sealers (many coats), some say 'new chemical sealants' will possibly destroy the old tiles, some say to use liquid or paste wax, some say liquid wax gets too dirty over time. Help??? I just don't want to hurt the old tiles. Also, what would be the best thin set mortar to use....white marble mortar, or gray latex mortar? Any leaching of stuff caused by by of mortar? So many questions....

Dear SUE PARFEUILLE: Without seeing the tiles, it would be difficult to suggest a proper sealer or a particular type of thinset. I recommend that you go on line to  www.tile-assn.com  to find a member close to your location and ask them to help you with your decision's for proper application and installation methods / materials. Gerald Sloan NTCA

alan c 

Jan-28-2008 20:25

We desired a casual look for our new home and selected a stone floor with a chisled edge. The stones were butted tight together, but because of the chisled edge, the grout is wide at the surface. A sanded grout was used. The grout was applied and "washed" slightly below the surface of the stone. We have found that the floor is uncomfortable to walk on, especially barefoot because the chiseled edges are sharp. This is also true in the center of many of the stone tiles where the stone is pitted and the grout has also been washed slightly below the top of the stone. We want to know if it is possible to apply an additional "layer" of grout over the existing grout, to finish just even with the top of the stone to eliminate the sharp edges we are feeling. Do you recommend a particular type of grout for this application? Can a non-sanded grout be used so we don't sind up with an abrasive grout surface?What can be done to help the new grout bond with the existing sanded grout, to avoid the new grout from flaking off over time? Thanks so much. Alan C.

Dear ALAN C: OK first of all sanded portland-cement based grouts do not adhere very well to existing sanded grout in a thin veneer. You need to remove the old grout down 2/3 of the depth of the joint in order to have sufficient strength for the grout to stay in place. Sanded cement grouts generally require at least a 1/8" wide grout joint where an unsanded cement grout is recommended for joints that are 1/8 smaller. There are some polymer admixtures that can be used in place of water when mixing the grout that will give a much higher bond strength. Check with you grout manufacturer to determine the best products to use for your application. Gerald Sloan NTCA

Jean 

Jan-28-2008 12:44

what causes ceramic tile to crack in a shower?

Dear JEAN: Under proper installation guidelines, tile in a shower should not crack unless something in the framing or foundation is moving which would be considered a structural issue and not a tile installation issue. The most common cracks in a shower is in the inside corners due to grouting and not using the appropriate caulking such as 100% silicone or urethane. The next common cause for cracking in a shower is not taping the joints of backerboard or fitting some backerboards too tight at the inside corners before installing the tile. Gerald Sloan NTCA

RETIRED 

Jan-28-2008 09:02

can new ceramic tile be installed directly over an existing ceramic tile floor - existing tile is not a high gloss - removal is difficult as it was laid on a mesh/mud base about 2" thick

Dear RETIRED: Yes, new ceramic tile can be installed over old ceramic tile. You need to rough up the surface a little on the old tile and make sure you clean the old tile throughly and use a polymer modified thinset to get the appropriate bond. Gerald Sloan NTCA

1500hdbob 

Jan-27-2008 23:59

Hi all, hope you can help me out, Here is my situation. I want to install tile in my kitchen. Right now I have linolium glued right to particle board(no luan). My question is how to proceed. Can I lay tile right on linolium, or put cement board over linolium, and if so how do I fasten it. Or do I have to remove linolium (concerned about possible abestos) and put cement board over particle board and then tile? If so, how do you fasten the cement board to particle board? Can I just put screws in every 8 in in the linolim and tile over that? Hope you can clear me up

Dear 1500HDBOB: It would be best if the linoleum was removed first but due to possible asbestos in the linoleum you could take a slight risk and install the backer board over the linoleum by first using the appropriate thinset recommended by the backerboard manufacturer. In your Question, You mention particle board that is under the linoleum which may be the biggest risk due to its deflection issues. Particle board in general does not have the stiffness required or the moisture resistance necessary for proper tile installation. To Reduce the possible chance of a tile failure, I recommend that you go on line to  www.tile-assn.com  and contact a professional near you to discuss possible installation methods. Gerald Sloan NTCA

rmuldowney 

Jan-27-2008 20:37

I need to replace some decorative title in a bathroom that was built about 1956. Do you know of anyplace I can purchase Vintage tile?

Dear RMULDOWNEY: I'm sorry I can't help you with this.

tracey 

Jan-27-2008 15:36

We have moved into a new house which has tiles on the garage floor. There is no heating in the garage and it is separate from the house. After a cold spell and it turns a bit milder condensation appears on the tiles and they become very slippy it can take a few days to dry again even if we leave the garage doors open. Do you know what is causing this

Dear TRACEY: It's common for tile in exterior applications to do this especially in humid climates and with rapid change in temperatures. You may want to look into some of the products designed to reduce slipperiness offered by the sealer companies. Gerald Sloan NTCA

brhog 

Jan-27-2008 10:51

how in the world do you get to the forum and archives,also when you click the question # you get a window asking for authenication id and password what gives?

Dear BRHOG: Myself and a few others offer the answers only. My schedule of traveling workshops can cause me to get behind on answering some of the questions. Gerald Sloan NTCA

aj 

Jan-27-2008 09:45

Hi TileMan, Please help... I have a quarry tiled floor which appears to have a bit of dampness coming up through it (I put down a vinyl floor covering directly on them and now when it is lifted there is a white residue and quite a strong smell of something mouldy. My question is what to do to either seal the tiled area so I can lay a laminate floor or similar, or indeed what are my options? Many thanks.

Dear AJ: You may want to involve a structural engineer to determine to source and prevention of the moisture before proceeding to the installation of any finished flooring. Sealers in general do not stop moisture vapor. They may help to slow liquid penetration and can be very effective in preventing stains. Gerald Sloan NTCA

MOMDAD 

Jan-27-2008 09:35

we removed old tile and toilet now what do we do?

Dear MOMDAD: If you are planning to install new tile over a wood substrate, you will need to clean the wood properly and choose a backer board or underlayment system of your choice. If it is on a concrete slab, you will need to properly clean it and inspect for cracks in which you may want to install a crack isolation system before you install the new tile. Gerald Sloan NTCA

lindy 

Jan-26-2008 19:57

Hi, we got our tile from Home Depot, one or two years ago just putting it in now, we lack 4 pices can't find in Home Depot anymore, it is Attica Beige sku#428570 model #ATTOOBE brand Cotto can you help us find ?n also say Thi Ceramic co. ltd

Dear LINDY: I'm sorry I can't help you with this.

julie 

Jan-26-2008 10:12

Can water get under ceramic tile in a kitchen if there was a water leak in the wall...now fixed? The tile is on slab and smeels musty.

Dear JULIE: Yes, with most applications of tile over concrete, the setting material is a portland cement based thinset and like most all portland cement based materials, they do absorb water. Like typical concrete, these thinsets will dry out over a period of time. The musty smell you are referring to probably is not the tile but more likely a wood product such as the base of the kitchen cabinets . Gerald Sloan NTCA

Helen 

Jan-25-2008 21:46

I'm looking t have a ceramic tile backsplash installed in my kitechen. One installer wants to use the mud screen method and another installer wants to use a cement board. What's the advantages to one over the other?

Dear HELEN: The mud method allows the installer to correct variables in the frame work of the wall by simply floating out the necessary thickness to true up as you apply the cement wall mud. Backer board can be much faster but sometimes it may be necessary to shim between the back of the backer board and the wall stud to get a flat tiling surface. Gerald Sloan NTCA

Home_Wrecker 

Jan-25-2008 15:45

I have read some other questions on the board in regaurds to slate tile in a shower. If I seal the slate tile, when it is installed in the shower will this prevent it from potential leakage? I plan to install pvc sheathing behind the cement board for added protection.

Dear HOME_WRECKER: Sealers in general do not make stone, tile, or grout waterproof but do reduce the amount of moisture absorption thereby reducing the chance of a stain. A proper water management system is required to be installed before any tile or stone installation in a wet area such as a shower stall. Gerald Sloan NTCA

Andrea 

Jan-25-2008 14:11

I am installing tile in my shower, including the ceiling. I will be using Dilex for the inside wall joints. Since Schluter doesn't offer pre-formed corner pieces, how do you suggest I deal with the inside corners at the base and top of the shower? Is it best to miter the Dilex? Would you miter just the plastic edges that are embedded in mortar, but try to do a butt joint with the CPE? I checked the Schluter web site, and they don't address this issue. Thank you.

Dear ANDREA: You may want to contact Schluter directly at 1800-472-4588 Gerald Sloan NTCA